Article tres interessant aussi.
Cela confirme que les mesures de 1er glissement de needlesports ne suffisent pas à caractériser la tenue d’un nœud en situation réelle.
Un peu qd meme puisque ds son article Tom Moyer ecrit cela :
I do not think that there’s an easy definition of the strength of the flat-knots. Most of the time, if the tails are long enough, the process of repeated flips stops at some point and the knot cinches tighter and then holds until the rope breaks. In my testing, this often happened just as the knot was about to run out of tail. Since this process is so uncertain, I regard the force at the first flip as the failure load for the knot. I have seen other test data published which simply lists the strength (force at rope-failure) of the flat-knots. I think this is extremely misleading.
Une autre remarque importante en corollaire:
The flat-overhand is clearly better than the flat-figure-eight. The flat-eight is represented three-to-one in the accidents despite (to the best of my knowledge) many more climbers using the overhand. The flat-eight also starts flipping at a lower load (750 lbs vs 1400 lbs for well-tied, 110 lbs vs 200 lbs for badly tied) than the overhand, and it eats two to three times as much tail in each flip.
Quand le noeud tourne, si c’est un huit, il consomme 2 a 3x plus de corde. Il faudrait donc (conditionnel) 2 a 3x moins de retournements du noeud pour que le noeud disparaisse et les cordes tombent.
Je retiens cela de ces articles :
What I do know is that I didn’t find any combinations of factors for a well-dressed, well-preloaded, flat-overhand or flat-figure-eight knot with sufficient tails that would cause failure at less than body weight.
- faire avec application le noeud
- mettre les brins en tension correctement
- laisser au-moins 30cm de corde en rab
