Snow-secure groomed cross-country skiing France

#1

In addition to backcountry « randonnee » ski mountaineering and lift-served skiing, I also have lots of fun in France skiing gentler slope angles on the groomed cross-country ski tracks (« ski de fond » or « nordique »). Like many French users, I find it more fun to use Skating technique than Classic striding. I like it also as a safer alternative on high-avalanche days – or just to use different muscles after a long hard day of ski mountaineering.

But with the warming in recent years, the sites for cross-country ski tracks have been losing their snow cover sooner in springtime. So it’s valuable to know which ones are more « snow secure » – better bet for still having the cross-country skiing available into late March and April.

So I’ll be glad for suggestions.

Here’s my nominations so far for « snow secure » trail networks (in order of increasing springtime security):
(4) Savoie Grand Revard (including La Feclaz) – between Chambery + Annecy – around 1300-1400m altitude.

(3) Bessans – in the Haute Maurienne out E from Modane) – around 1750m altitude, but many trails exposed to the sun.

(2) Les Saisies – out somewhere between Albertville and Megeve – around 1500-1600m elevation, but much N-facing and tree-sheltered.

(1) Alpe d’Huez – E from Grenoble – much around 1950-2100m altitude, sun-exposed but just so much higher than other cross-country ski networks.

Note that any of these four areas is higher than any « normal » cross-country ski area (not specifically intended for late-spring-summer skiing) in Austria or Italy or the Jura. And Savoie Grand Revard and Les Saisies have more interesting trail networks than any area in Austria or Italy (and the other two French areas as interesting as almost any in Austria or Italy). Perhaps seems unfair, but France is just all-around better for skiing.

I’ll be glad for other ideas for springtime cross-country skiing.

Ken

#2

Alpe d’Huez
is tricky to figure out the first time skiing the groomed cross-country tracks – yet so good for late springtime snow – so I’m giving this detailed report of …

My first time skiing on the Lac Besson and the Poutrans cross-country pistes at the giant Alpe d’Huez ski station (or collection of stations). Surrounded by spectacular mountains, and with a reasonably interesting layout of trails, some close among lakes and cliffs. Mostly at altitude 1850m to 2050m, and above tree-line.

Getting started here is a bit different from most other cross-country areas, because you can ride up on a mechanical lift to get from the Alpe d’Huez base village (GPS lat long approx N45.0958 E6.0702) to reach the main trail network areas. Here’s what I found …

Parking:
As you drive up the paved access road to Alpe d’Huez village from the main highway which connects Grenoble + Bourg d’Oisans + La Grave + Briancon, higher up you’ll see signs that direct you to turn right to go to the ski pistes and ski lifts. Following those signs leads to a big parking lot (no charge when I was there) by the Bergers shopping mall (N45.0899 E6.0765), which sells tickets for cross-country skiing, and is surrounded by several mechanical ski lifts. But those lifts are only for downhill skiers to reach dowhill ski trails. They are not the lifts that lead to the cross-country ski trails. Getting from the Bergers shopping mall to the lifts for cross-country skiers requires skiing (or hiking) up for about 1.1 km distance in the NNW direction, including over 60 vertical meters of uphill labor. Nicer coming back down at the end of your day, but if you did not want to start your day with an unnecessary uphill « warmup », then do not turn off right, and . . .

Instead follow the signs for « village center », and try to find parking somewhere near the base station of the « DMC 1 » lift (N45.0976 E6.0697), where it might be more difficult or expensive to find available parking.
. . . (or if a driver of the car feels strong to do an uphill « warmup » ski (? or find a shuttle bus?), could drop of all the other skiers and their equipment near the DMC lift and park the car down by Bergers – then they purchase tickets and wait for the driver to rejoin by skiing).

Ticket purchase:
I bought one trail pass ticket (for around 10 Euros) to be permitted to ski on the groomed cross-country trails, and a separate lift ticket (also for around 10 Euros) for riding up (one time) on the mechanical lift - (I don’t know if this ticket also includes a ride down on that lift, because I skied down).
. . . (I was told that both of those different tickets need to be purchased with cash, not credit card).

There are two lifts (« DMC » and « Les Jeux ») available for cross-country skiers, and you have to choose which one at the time of purchase. DMC at its mid-station connects slightly better with the Lac Besson trail network, so I recommend purchasing the ticket for the « DMC » lift.
. . . (If want to go up by skiing instead of riding the lift, it’s about +110 vertical meters uphill over 1.75 km distance to reach the Poutran trail network. And another +100 vertical meters uphill (some rather steep) over 1.6 km distance to reach the lower SW corner of the Lac Besson trail network).

Get to the main ski trail network:
Find the DMC lift, take skis off and carry them up the stairs and let the attendant help you get into one of the lift compartments. Ride inside the compartment up to the DMC lift mid-station (N45.1059 E6.0850) – (Do not remain in the compartment all the way to the lift top station – Get out off the first time its door opens). When the door of the compartment automatically opens, step carefully out (carrying your skis and poles) onto the platform. Next walk down stairs or ramp to the snow.

Where’s the cross-country ski trail? Good luck finding a sign for it. This giant ski area is mainly for downhill skiers, so almost any sign you see is intended to point you toward a downhill-only trail or a downhill-skier lift. There are also hiking trails for non-skiers (French « pietons »?) on snowshoes or walking boots. These trails are generally close by (and often parallel to) the cross-country (French « nordique »?) ski trails, but separate from them. So try to figure out from the icon symbol on each trail sign whether it’s for you or the hikers (or rather more often only for the downhill-skiers).

hint: The closest Lac Besson trail (approx GPS lat long N45.1053 E6.0853) is about 30-50m uphill SE or E from the DMC lift mid-station. The trail for the Poutran cross-country network (roughly around N45.1063 E6.0819) is up to 100 meters NW or W a bit downhill. The Lac loop is has more interesting scenery (lakes + cliffs) and more interesting trail design than most of the Poutran network (and is generally higher) so I suggest starting with the Lac trail, since if you later want to ski back down to Alpe d’Huez village, you’ll meet the Poutran network along the way.

. . . (to be continued) . . .

#3

more on Alpe d’Huez cross-country skiing . . .

Lac Besson trail network:
The short loop goes out to (N45.1156 E6.0875) just before reaching the actual lakes, by a chalet overlooking the lakes.
About 1.3 km North going out mostly downhill (with about +20 vertical meters uphill), then back South about 1.3 km, starts with an uphill, then little ups + downs (with overall about +40 vertical meters uphill) to reach the trail which goes back down to the Alpe d’Huez base village (and the Poutran network along the way). So total Loop about +60 vertical meters uphill over 2.6 km horizontal distance.
Or there’s an alternate return South which goes lower farther West, which starts with a long downhill, but finishes with a steeper uphill about +35 vertical meters.

The full Lac loop goes from the DMC lift mid-station to the « Alpette » (N45.1388 E6.0938), a flat area which is the top station of the lift which comes up from the Vaujany village, also the top station of a lift up from the Oz village, also the bottom station of a lift which goes much higher (only for downhill-skiers).
About 4.2 km North with significant hills, about +90 vertical meters to reach Alpette. The return South to reach the trail which goes back down to the Alpe d’Huez base village (and the Poutran network along the way is about 4.5 km distance with significant hills, about +125 vertical meters (including one long climb for 1.1 km, much of it at 9-10% steepness grade). So total loop about +215 vertical meters uphill over 8.7 km horizontal distance.

Connecting from the Lac Besson network to Poutran network:
Is about 1.2 km distance going West to reach major trail junction (N45.1090 E6.0726) at East side of Poutran trail network. Almost all downhill (for about 85-90 vertical meters) – with one long steep section about 0.5 km at a steepness grade of 12%. Faces generally W + NW, so could be icy in the morning.

Poutran trail network:
The short way through this network is roughly SW less than half kilometer (with some curves) to another major trail junction (N45.1080 E6.0703) at the low S side of the Poutran network.

The long Poutran loop (with nice views) is more than 3 km long with many curves and (contrived) loops and hills (around 80 vertical meters of uphill). Some of the loops are easily avoided by taking little shortcuts off-trail. There’s also a short « Hippodrome » loop.

Down to finish at Alpe d’Huez village:
From the major trail junction (N45.1080 E6.0703) at the low S side of the Poutran network, it’s about 1.75 km downhill (with about 110 vertical meters of elevation loss) to reach the Alpe d’Huez village center by the base station of the DMC lift (N45.0976 E6.0697). And another 1.1 km distance, some flat and mostly gentle downhill, to reach the Bergers shopping mall (N45.0899 E6.0765) with larger easier parking.

alternate Parking bases:
The cross-country trail map seems to suggest that (instead of Alpe d’Huez) it’s possible to park at Vaujany (N45.1575 E6.0788) and ride a mechanical lift up to the Alpette (N45.1388 E6.0938), which is at the North end of the Lac Besson trail network. Presumably need to ride that lift back down after finishing cross-country skiing. But I haven’t checked any of this.
. . . (Advantage of Vaujany parking base might be shorter easier driving from Grenoble. Disadvantage is that cannot get back to base by skiing down, and do not get the option of skiing up to the main trail network instead of purchasing a lift ticket and riding up).

Or perhaps park at Oz en Oisans, and ride a mechanical lift up to the Lac Besson trail network. But I haven’t checked that.