Leashless ice tools

#1

Posted as guest by Richard:

I’d like to buy a pair of leashless ice tools to climb waterfall ice next winter. Could anyone tell me about his experience or provide me with some advice?

I own a pair of Simond Anaconda cup that I use leashless for waterfall ice and a pair of Grivel monster for total dry. I am very happy with the aggressivity of the Simond blade, but it is a little bit too fragile for dry tooling. Also, the shape of the anaconda is not ideal for continuous leashless climbing.

Possibilities and first assessement:

  • Simond Coyote light: weird shape, I like the blade for ice (same as anaconda), but not for dry tooling.
  • Petzl Nomic: looks great, but what about durability and robustness?
  • Black Diamond Fusion: looks great, but what about the blade (one should replace the fusion blade by a laser blade, they say).
  • DMM anarchist: no idea. Looks good, but still has a place to fix a leash: hybrid?
  • Other??? Saw something from Vaude or Lucky on a picture, but I’m not sure.

Thanks for your help.

#2

Posted as guest by xavier:

Hi Richard,

I always try to use new tools just for experience new feelings. Sometimes I feel able to make a Ranking with my experiences but sometimes I guess this ranking depends a lot on my fit level / condition.
From 3 years ago I leave leashes in all routes but I do bind axes to my harness on multispitch routes.

My best sensations at this mooment (spring 2005) were using CAMP AWAX (ol model) and a pair of tools of a new brand whatch on www.e-climb.com.
This brand also have a new design for leashes that makes simple to put protections, and climbing.

Those are my tools at this moment but market changes too fast and probably next winter I’ ll test some other tools.

Regards

#3

Posted as guest by RobinHogger:

Hi Richard:

I changed my regular Quarks with clipper leashes for Nomics last season. No problems with durability so far. Used them in waterfall ice and on the Ben for a week including a bit of blade torquing etc. Didn’t bend or break anything. Did mank up the pick points a bit on the Ben though so I bought a new set for this years icescapades.

Used them last weekend for the first time this year (yay!) on some fairly hard water ice. I winced a couple of times extracting them (first route of season == overdriven axes) as I was sure I would break/bend a pick but they were fine.

They seem to stick a little better than the Quarks if u flick them but the Quarks have a more natural action. I use the Quarks still for long mountain routes where a dropped tool is not an option and I want a hammer/adze combo but will definitely stay with the Nomics for waterfall ice.

I like the karabiner hole in the bottom of the Nomics handle but it will not take most regular karabiners! This means to use the free axe as a temporary belay (axe->quickdraw->rope) while setting a screw I have to renew all my quickdraws (or at least the gear end karabiner of them), I’m still saving for this. Does anyone know of a nice wiregate that fits? I have a daisy chain with an appropriate sized krab for emergency rests but it almost always feels too spooky to use it - only in extremis!