Grandes Jorasses : Important information!
North Face : with the current crowd in some routes of the north face, the rescue authorities (PGHM) recall that it is dangerous to venture at several teams in the same icy/mixed route.
Refuge : beware that it is mandatory to phone to Leschaux hut before to showing up. Booking is COMPULSORY. The current situation (overcrowded) is intolerable and up to 30 people per day come to the refuge without prior reservation, bivy equipment or stove whereas that the shelter is full. Besides discomfort, safety is jeopardized by this kind of behavior and it is essential to respect basic rules.
Normal Route : the Italian authorities are monitoring the activity of the Grandes Jorasses serac (serac Whymper) on the normal route. They inform us of the increase frequency of collapses of the ice front. Therefore, they strongly advise not to go there.