Posted as guest by Beppe:
Cerco informazioni sulla via normale che porta all’Eiger.
grazie Beppe
Eiger
Posted as guest by Alessio:
Ho delle fotocopie di una descrizione della via normale all’Eiger.
Anche a me piacerebbe salirci. Mi accontenterei di salire fino a quota 3000 m circa.
Ciao Alessio
Posted as guest by Gianni:
Ti mando la descrizione della guida dell’Oberland dell’Alpine Club.
Se hai bisogno di un compagno, fammi sapere…
Ciao
Gianni
(tratto da: Bernese Oberland, Selected Climbs, Alpine Club Guide Books)
EIGER
(via normale per la cresta ovest)
Difficoltà: AD
Tempo di salita: 6-8 h
Tempo di discesa: 4-5 h
SOUTH-WEST FLANK AND WEST RIDGE
First ascent party
Most ofthe SW flank is like a tiled roof covered in debris. There are cairns and in many places the route is a quite well worn track, but the best line can be difficult to follow especially in descent, in fog or in the dark. The tracks zig-zag about and in places there are quite long traverses. I t is advisable to look very carefully for the cairns. Parties involved in the ‹ Climb for the World › event in the autumn of 1991 placed many stakes and pitons over the whole length of the flank and left them in place as useful belays. With other parties on the route there is considerable danger from stonefall. Another disadvantage of this route is that there is no suitable hut base from which to make the climb, although there is hotel accommodation at the Eigergletscher station (with dormitory). If approaching the lalter on foot from Kl. Scheidegg it is belter to follow the path system than to walk up the railway track. The climb is described in ascent and in descent.
From the Eigergletscher station turn the S foot of the Rotstock (2663.2m) on a vague track over debris-covered slabs or snow to reach the vicinity of the col between the Rotstock and the SW flank of the mountain. Climb R wards on slabs and snow to the foot of the
rocks. Climb the first step via a steep, often snow-filled, couloir or on the rocks L of the couloir. When the angle eases make a rising
traverse L to the ridge and follow this, keeping on its R flank, to the
next steepening. This is just below a rock obelisk projecting from
the N face (Kanzeli or Pilz). Make a rising traverse R under the
steep rocks (snow, rock, debris) before returning to the W ridge at a
saddle. Follow the ridge and reach the summit up a final
snow/ice slope or the rocks on the L. 6-8hr
In descent there are a number of places where there are fixed abseil anchors, but it is probably just as quick to climb down and so
reduce the risk of dislodging stones on other parties.
Start by descending a snow/ice slope Wwards to a levelling.
Abseil anchors (marked in red) indicate the start of a couloir in the S
flank of the W ridge. Go down this, then straight down for about
100m. Descend slightly Lwards for another 100m before turning R
round a rocky projection (more cemented abseil anchors). Descend
over small steps, snow/ice and debris, directly to the rib bordering a
couloir on the L (cairn). Get into the couloir (abseil points) and
descend obliquely R to the level of the rock obelisk projecting from
the N face. A zigzagging track with several cairns leads down to the
top of a steep step. Move Lwards to a couloir (often snow-filled) and
dèscend this or the rocks on its R (abseil anchors). Descend more
easily now on snow andlor slabs until close to the col between the
Rotstock and the SW flank. A track lead round the S side of the
Rotstock to the Eigergletscher station.
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Posted as guest by matteo:
Ciao
ho letto di un pazzo che spuntato in vetta attraverso la via est…slegato!
Su internet EIGER PAZZIA ACUTA
Posted as guest by Gianni:
Se intendi
http://www.intraisass.it/eiger.htm
- è la cresta di Mittelegi. Difficile, ma in parte attrezzata con corde fisse.
- essendo una cresta, la si percorre comunque ognuno per proprio conto (è difficile e rischioso assicurare in « orizzontale »).
L’autore del resoconto, in effetti, è stato pazzo nel senso di essere andato su quel percorso con l’idea iniziale di andare da solo e senza aver attrezzatura adeguata. Poi però si capisce che qualche pezzo di corda per le emergenze l’aveva…