Posté en tant qu’invité par Matjaz Jeran:
Hi,
Anybody climbed Dru, Bonatti pillar?
Or anybody knows for Conditions of snow to the Flammes de Pierres?
Matjaz
[%sig%]
Dru
Posté en tant qu’invité par pierre:
I have climbing Bonnatti pilar with one of my friends during october 2002.
It’s a nice route but just near the area of importants rocks fall in the west face of the dru (1990 ? after ?): the area of rock fall is near the pilar, just on the left, from the mid of the route untill the ground …during 2002 the route was not realy concerned and we don’t find loose rocks on the ledges.
For the gear we find only olds nails . Belay stations are old and not safe … Some nails are poorly stucked in the cracks and get out just with the hands ! Its necessary to bring a complete game of cam and nuts, and also some nails , 5 or 6 , just in case.
We stay 2 days in the pillar. The first day early start from Charpoua. there is 5 or 6 belays stations for rapping down from « flammes de pierre » and reaching the base of the pilar. We stop the fist day 2 pitchs under « fissure des autrichiens » (good beavy for 2). The second day we reach the end of the pillar (around 20 pitchs for the route) another beavy in the descent. We bring beavy gear, water (8 litres), and generally haul up ours two backpacks.
I think fall is better because it’s safe about rock fall for reaching the base of the pilar. You can also find snow down in the gully at the end of the descent and so it’s easy to reach the start of the fist pitch. During summer you may find there a lot of loose rock comming down from the top of « flammes de pierre », very dangerous !. It’s better to go there when temps are colling down. After you find the sun !
Be careful it’s not really a safe area…last summer was observed another rock fall near the pilar, perhaps some part of the route have falling down?
We don’t climb very quickly but it’s hard, and there is only old gear, it’s necessary to protect yoursef whith cams in every pitch. Then i think it’s hard to climb the route for one day …So, i think it’s not now a classical route. I don’t know if a lot of party go there during the last years …What does they thinks about this old classical route ?
Have great time during yours climbs !
Pierre