Posted as guest by Ganesh Neupane:
International Cho Oyu 8201m.Expedition Spring 2007
10 April 2006
Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition
Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route from there. Since 1998, our company “Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We also had our teams to the Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in autumn 2004.
Meeting and climbing information:
Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.
After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.
Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west,there are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there are all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day’s climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
Booking
If you like to book us for the expedition you can log on to our web http://www.monterosa-nepal.com, for online booking you should deposit us USD 500.00 bank transfer in our bank account in advance which enables you for your secured seats. After this deposition, your expedition will be final confirmed; and in case if you cancel the expedition, the deposition will not be refunded. This is the terms and conditions of our company.
Legend
Regarding to the name of this Cho Oyu, the legend says, in Tibetan language, Chomo means the goddess and Yu means the turquoise. So adding these two words, it was called Cho Oyu. Also it is called the “Turquoise Goddess” as per the Tibetan dialect. Another derivation of the name is called it as the bald god as well.
International Cho Oyu (8,201m) Expedition
Entry/Exit Zhangmu
Fixed Departure
10 April 2007
Itinerary:
07 April 07 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
08 April 07 Day 02: Kathmandu
09 April 07 Day 03: Kathmandu
10 April 07 Day 04: Drive to Kodari & transfer Zhangmu 2300m.
11 April 07 Day 05: Drive Nylam 2750m. -
12 April 07 Day 06: Nylam rest for acclimatization
13 April 07 Day 07: Drive Tingri 4340m.
14 April 07 Day 08: Rest of day for acclimatized
15 April 07 Day 09: Drive to Chinese Base Camp 5000m. Camping
16 April 07 Day 10: Chinese Base Camp
17 April 07 Day 11: Prepared load to Yak for Advance Base Camp.
18 April 07 Day 12: Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
19 April 07 Day 13: Middle Camp - Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp 5700m. [
20 April - 15 May 2007 Day 14-39: Climbing Period for Cho Oyu 8201m
16 May 07 Day 40: Advance Base camp - Chinese Base camp
17 May 07 Day 41: drive Base Camp - Zhangmu
18 May 07 Day 42: Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu
19 May 07 Day 43: Kathmandu
20 May 07 Day 44: Kathmandu
21 May 07 Day 45: Final Departure
Cost: Group joining basis
Per Person US$ 4,500.00
Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is US$ 3,000.00 (If required)
Cost includes:
1.5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotel)
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3.Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4.Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5.Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6.Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7.Per person’s (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from BC-ABC
8.Per person’s (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
9.Kathmandu - Zhangmu – Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
10.Peak permit for Cho Oyu 8201m
11.Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12.Liaison officer & Interpreter
13.Nepalese crew’ insurance
14.ABC – Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator
15.Satellite phone (Pay call)
16.Gamow bag (Life saving device in case of altitude sickness).
17.Expedition T-shirts with Expedition label
18.Farewell dinner
Cost not includes:
1.Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2.Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
3.Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4.Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
5.International departure tax.
6.Personal Expenses.
7.Medical and rescue insurance.
8.Personal Climbing equipment.
9.Bar bills & Beverage.
10.Rescue Jeep USD 600.00
11.Medicine and first aid expenses
12.Garbage Deposit USD 500.00 (Sharing of the total person)
13.Walkie-Talkie.
14.Extra yak, Per Yak’s USD 100.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.
15.If have hired climbing Sherpa guide until reaching to the TOP of the mountain, the hirer should pay USD 500.00 climbing bonus minimum only in case the climbing is succeeded with Sherpa.
Extra service if required.
Russian oxygen 4 littersUS$ 400.00
Mask & RegularUS$ 400.00
Satellite phoneUS$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit US$ 5000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep US$ 3000.00
Rescue JeepUSD 600 Per Jeep
We Provide in Base Camp & Advanced Base Camp
The smallest satellite mobile phone every Expedition (International Call with chargeable)Portable Altitude Chamber (Gamow Bag)
(Life saving device incase of altitude sickness) We provide Russian Oxygen in BC & ABC incase needed for emergency
Note: After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews from your generosity if you are happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a happy and successful climbing.
Our motto is to appease our clients. Thanks.
Extra Service
We have Internet/E-mail
Satellite phone calls