57383_fr
Tip for route finding: after arriving at the beach there is a gully immediately on your right. This is not the correct one and will lead to a dead end. You need to traverse along the water for about 50 meters (around the rock) and then go up.
As far as the route itself goes, the 5c is somewhat polished, but doable and still nice. The 6a is completely in the first moves below the first bolt. This part is very polished and not nice. The entire upper crack of the 6a+ is polished. Although the moves are cool, the polish makes it crap and hard for the grade. If you try this, make sure you are comfortable in the grade. The bolting is very good though.
For rappelling in the route. We saw 2 rappel anchors, in the route itself, so I think 40m rappels would be feasible. We brought a 60m rope, so we didn’t try it.