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Not need to say that we’ve been very shocked when reading the last report from @Lulu002 when checking conditions. I knew you only from your countless reports, and your tragic accident reminded us how much we’re only tolerated in the mountain world. Somehow kept it in my mind during the whole day, wondering if anything could be brought back to you from up there… I wish you courage and patience to overcome all this.
Bravo!
@toju can you share what you mean by the « new » abseil route for the descent. I thought the main option was to go down through the italian side.
Merci beaucoup pour ces pensées : la plus belle chose que vous pouviez me ramener de là -haut c’est le plaisir d’avoir grimpé cette voie et d’en revenir entier !
Belles escalades Ă vous !
Yes… I wanted to update the topo with this in any case!
When you descend on the Italian side, you can follow the couloir (as in the c2c topo). The alternative with 2x50m is to do the first rappel (we downclimbed it). Once you reach the second muni-ring, you look to your right (facing down), behind a flake / small pilar and find another rappel station (2 spits with chain). This is the start of 5 x 50m-rappels. Note that the first and last should really be split into 2 to avoid blocking your rope (coincidence: there are intermediate rappel stations on cordelettes with maillons); for the second rappel, you must cross a flat ridge on the right side (facing up). In the end, I don’t know whether it’s faster than the classic descent, certainly an option if you’re tired…
I hate wet pistaches… 