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#1

Mont Blanc : Intégrale de Peuterey par l’Arête S de la Noire de Peuterey

#2

nice!

#3

« What an expedition! »
Oh sure ! Bravo !
I hope the broken finger is going well.
Thanks for the report, with all the details, very interessing. It will be very useful for those who plan to go there.
You said "Rappels of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey: Some risk of rock or ice fall from teams above "
How many teams where on the way ?
I did not know it was so frequented !

#4

Well done and thanks for this detailed report!

#5

It’s hard to count how many teams we were as we all followed different strategies and timings :sweat_smile:

At col de Peuterey bivouac we were 3 teams, I believe we were all following a 3-day strategy.
We passed a team that was following a 5-day strategy.
We were passed by a team with a 2-day strategy.
We were also passed by a team targetting to finish it in 15 hours!!!
There were other teams climbing only the Noire south ridge, without engaging in the Peuterey integral.

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#6

Thanks.
Whaou… in 15 hours ! Even in 2 days they run all the way ? It seems you had to go fast.
Do you know if they were successful ?

#7

Not sure.
We met them at the Brèche Süd des Dames Anglaises at 10am, which is close to half of the route and they were doing pretty well! They made the Noire rappels in a single hour overtaking another team :astonished:

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#8

Very well done Jon, congrats!
You keep impressing

Fabien

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#9

Hi !
Good job for the route !
I don’t know if we are the one that passed you but we did the route in 16 h 20 min from the camping to the top me and my brother of 16 yo !
Timings :
3 h 15 camping
5 h 15 start of climbing
10 h top of noire de peuterey
13 h 15 craveri
Small break
13 h 50 start again
16 h top of blanche (S)
17 h col de peuterey
19 h 30 summit
21 h 45 refuge de tête rousse
A very special route Indeed !

#10

Hi all,

very nice job! Congrats. Congrats also to Oscar and his brother, what an achievement!

I am trying to find a good description for the part around les Dames Anglaises, between the end of the absails from the Noir and the bivouac Craveri.

My guidebook writes to ascent and descent the Pointe Casati. However, reading the online trip-reports, it seems that people traverse under les Dames Anglaises on the West side?

How did you pass les Dames? Do you have any recommendation not to get lost :slight_smile: ?

I am grateful for any hints!

Thank you!